ShowerLoop-cc/docker/showerloop/public/content/posts/blog1.md

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author="Anthony Hathaway"
title="The electronics board PCBBasic2.0"
date = "2017-03-09"
blog_image="/images/PCBBasic2_1.webp"
description="Development of the electronics control board for the ShowerLoop system, from analog switches to a more sophisticated control panel."
tags=['post']
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<p>For the last couple of months we have gotten back to circuit boards and looking at completing the project we started a long time ago. Making the shower smart and easily controllable like one would expect from modern consumer products. There's been a lot to learn considering all we could do a few years ago was wire up a light bulb, and even then we would need to check what the difference was with the brown wire (live/positive) and the blue wire (ground/neutral).</p>
<p>To keep it simple last year we started working on a fully analog version of the system, just like the one below.</p>
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_1.webp" alt="Initial analog control panel with rocker switches and toggle switches mounted on a black panel" >}}
<p>Basically it's a switch panel and buttons where the top 3 water proof/resistant rocker switches are to activate the pump, uv and heater and a 6 toggle switch switch-board below to control the individual valves. The top 3 buttons go to the power box that activated the relays with a 1 V DC current to close the circuit for the 220V AC to power the aforementioned devices. The valves are controlled directly via the 12V DC power supply.</p>
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_2.webp" alt="Close-up view of the switch panel showing the waterproof rocker switches and toggle switches with labels" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_3.webp" alt="Interior wiring of the control panel showing connections between switches and control circuits" >}}
<p>Anyway, that was the old one. Since then we've added all kindsa stuff. An integrated GFCI, fuses, an 8-channel relay module, voltage meter for the pump and a motor controller, Power button and the appropriate cable glands to keep everything up to spec. The cables should be around 18 AWG or lower (thicker).</p>
<p>Additionally to make it easier to use in everyday use we made an analog controller. This should be done with an integrated circuit but I don't have experience with that and the last two people I've tried to work with have failed to help me so I'm starting from the most basic setup that I can understand and make myself. So below you can see the schematic connecting one switch to multiple devices using diodes to keep the flow in one direction.</p>
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_4.webp" alt="Electrical schematic diagram showing switch connections with diodes to control multiple devices" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_5.webp" alt="Breadboard prototype of the control circuit with diodes and wiring for testing" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_6.webp" alt="Close-up of soldered diode connections on the prototype circuit board" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_7.webp" alt="Assembled circuit board showing the completed control system with all components" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_8.webp" alt="Testing the control board with multimeter to verify electrical connections" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_9.webp" alt="Final control board mounted in enclosure with cable connections" >}}
{{< videojs id="video3" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_10.webp" alt="Control panel installed and connected to the ShowerLoop system showing operational status" >}}
{{< img src="/images/PCBBasic2_11.webp" alt="Complete ShowerLoop control system with the new electronics board fully wired and functional" >}}