diff --git a/docs/appendices/3d-printing.md b/docs/appendices/3d-printing.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..655ce6d --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/appendices/3d-printing.md @@ -0,0 +1,23 @@ +# Appendix B: 3D printed parts + +# Buying 3D-printed parts from us +Not everyone has access to a 3D-printer. [That's why we sell kits with everything you need to build a Ploopy Adept Trackball](https://ploopy.co/product-category/trackball/adept/). Here's why that's great for you: + +- You get all of the 3D-printed parts, guaranteed free of manufacturing defects +- You won't waste time spending hours tweaking settings +- We guarantee it will fit together *perfectly* + +Consider it. You're a smartie. You'll get there. + +# Printing your own parts + +So, you have a printer and want to print your own parts? Great! We don't have specific instructions, since every printer setup is different. All of the STLs are available, and if you need to make tweaks, you can alter the design files. + +Here are the settings we use when we print parts. **Note that these settings have only been tested on the Prusa i3 MK2.5S and MK3S.** If you have another printer, you may need to tweak these settings. + +- PLA. The geometry of many of the parts is quite complex; trying to use other materials may not result in success. +- 0.30mm layer height. You can go finer than this if you want, but we haven't tested that. Going coarser is not going to work; first, it's going to feel rough on your hand, and second, it won't accurately capture the necessary detail. +- No support material is required anywhere. However, your printer must have the capability of bridging distances of up to 40mm. +- Orient the pieces so that flat sides are on the build plate. +- We like gyroid for infill pattern, but anything is probably good. Cubic, rectilinear, whatever. +- We use 0.4mm nozzles. We haven't tested other nozzle sizes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/docs/appendices/hardware.md b/docs/appendices/hardware.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df9695f --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/appendices/hardware.md @@ -0,0 +1,52 @@ +# Appendix C: Hardware + +# Buying hardware from us + +Getting all of the hardware on your own can be tricky because the parts you select may not fit perfectly. [That's why we sell kits with everything you need to build a Ploopy Adept Trackball](https://ploopy.co/product-category/trackball/adept/). Here's why that's great for you: + +- Everything is guaranteed to fit together perfectly +- Everything is guaranteed to work as intended +- You'll end up saving money - probably quite a bit of money - by not spending on extra parts + +Your call. You'll sort it out. + +# Getting your own hardware + +This guide was a bit light on detail in the other sections, and that's because the hardware has to conform to many specifications. They'll all be listed here. + +First, a complete list of all the hardware you'll need: + +- 4x Small Screws +- 3x MR63ZZ Roller Bearings +- 4x Friction Pads +- 1x Snooker Ball + +We'll be going over all of them in detail. There will be mentions of *critical specifications*; if you're going to be sourcing your own parts, **you must get parts that conform to the critical specifications**. If you go off-menu, the parts will not fit the way that we intended when we designed the trackball. That might mean that your trackball **doesn't work**. + +Let's get cracking. + +## Small Screws + +Here are the critical specifications: + +- \#2 +- 3/8" length + +## MR63ZZ Roller Bearings +Here are the critical specifications: + +- MR63ZZ bearing +- 3mm inner diameter +- 6mm outer diameter +- 2.5mm thickness + +## Friction pads +Here are the critical specifications: + +- Circular shape +- Up to 3/4" diameter +- Up to 1/8" thickness +- Non-slip + +## Snooker ball +We use 1.75-inch diameter (44.45mm) miniature snooker balls. Any ball between 44.0mm and 44.6mm will work. diff --git a/docs/appendices/pcbs.md b/docs/appendices/pcbs.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c8abea --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/appendices/pcbs.md @@ -0,0 +1,62 @@ +# Appendix A: Printed circuit boards + + +## Buying boards from us +Getting the Ploopy boards made can be complex, and expensive, especially if you only need one set. [That's why we sell kits with everything you need to build a Ploopy Adept Trackball](https://ploopy.co/product-category/trackball/adept/). Here's why that's great for you: + +- You get a PCB with all components soldered +- The firmware is already programmed on the microcontroller, so you won't have to program it +- It'll cost a hell of a lot less than if you do a production run of PCBs just for yourself +- You won't have to order components and wait while they come in +- We guarantee that it works + +Just something to consider. You're smart. You'll figure it out. + +## Making your own boards + +Want to make your own Ploopy Adept Trackball boards? Great! Less work for us. Seriously, though, only choose this option if you know what you're doing. You don't want to embarrass yourself, do you? + +### Step 1: Order the PCBs from a PCB production company + +Here are the most important configurations you'll need to communicate to the company: + +- 4 layers +- FR-4, TG 150-160 (basically, whatever the cheapest option is) +- 0.8mm thickness +- 6/6mil track/spacing distance +- 0.3mm minimum hole size +- ENIG surface finish, but you can go with HASL if you don't care about lead poisoning +- 1oz copper thickness for both outer and inner layers +- Choose whatever colours you want for solder mask and silkscreen; we like white solder mask and black silkscreen + +If something is missing from here, it's not really important. + +At some point, you'll have to upload design files to the production company. Use the [electronics source files](https://github.com/ploopyco/adept-trackball/tree/master/hardware/electronics) to generate manufacturing files (you'll have to convert them from their native Altium format if you're using some other platform). That should contain everything you need to get the boards made. If the production company rejects this package, however, you'll need to address the issue yourself. + +### Step 2: Order the electronics components + +All of the components are described in the schematics of the PCBs. Ordering the components is left as an exercise for the reader. + +A complete list of all of the components can be found in the electrical design files. + +### Step 3: Get the necessary tools + +- PCB +- All of the electronics components +- A soldering iron +- Solder +- A printout of the schematics + +### Step 4: Solder the components to the boards + +Once you've got the PCBs and all of the components, print out the schematics. Use the schematics to match the reference designators on the PCBs to the reference designators on the schematics, and then get to soldering. + +If you've never soldered surface mount components before, or want a refresher on how to solder, we recommend [this video on using an iron to solder surface mount components](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY), and [this video on using a hot-air soldering station](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_Qt5CtUlqY). + +Lastly, you'll need to follow a set of special instructions to assemble the PMW3360 sensor and the optic. [Take a look at page 11 of the official PMW3360 datasheet to find out how to do this](https://d3s5r33r268y59.cloudfront.net/datasheets/9604/2017-05-07-18-19-11/PMS0058-PMW3360DM-T2QU-DS-R1.50-26092016._20161202173741.pdf) (page 8 has visuals, for those of you who like purdy pictures). + +**MAKE SURE THAT THE PMW3360 IS ORIENTED CORRECTLY BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT!** This is a really easy step to mess up, so *DOUBLE-CHECK IT!* + +### Step 5: All done! + +Congrats, you finished assembling the electronics! Pat yourself on the back. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/docs/appendices/programming.md b/docs/appendices/programming.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b33851a --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/appendices/programming.md @@ -0,0 +1,73 @@ +# Appendix D: QMK Firmware Programming + + +# Working with QMK + +Ploopy devices are fairly easy to program and reprogram, thanks to the excellent work by all of the developers and maintainers of the [QMK firmware suite](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware). + +## Madromys? What's that? + +`madromys` is our internal codename for the Ploopy Adept. We don't always know what we're going to call the devices as we're designing them, so we assign codenames to them. This naming convention is also present in some public places, such as the QMK repository. If you see `madromys` while you're working with QMK, just know that the Adept and `madromys` are the same thing. + +## Before you begin + +If you have never used QMK before, go through [all of the steps in the QMK guide to set up your environment](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs_getting_started). + +QMK was built for keyboards, so you'll see lots of references to code that looks like the following: + +`-kb ` + +Whenever you see that, use the following syntax: + +`-kb ploopyco/madromys/rev1_001` + +and you'll be fine. + +## Building the Ploopy device firmware + +With your terminal window open and pointed at your QMK build environment, compile the firmware with the following command: + +`qmk compile -kb ploopyco/madromys/rev1_001 -km via` + +Alternatively, you can invoke the Makefile directly with the following: + +`make ploopyco/madromys/rev1_001:via` + +If you wish, you can use the default keymap (with `qmk compile -kb ploopyco/madromys/rev1_001 -km default` or `make ploopyco/madromys/rev1_001:default`). However, the VIA keymap is particularly interesting because it allows for customization of the trackball's functions without reflashing the firmware, through the use of the convenient [VIA software package](https://github.com/the-via/releases/releases). It's incredibly handy, so definitely check it out. + +For more details on building QMK firmware in general, see the [QMK firmware guide](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs_building_firmware). + +## Putting the Ploopy device into bootloader mode + +Putting the Ploopy device into bootloader mode is very easy. + +1. Unplug it from your computer. +2. Hold down the Bottom Left button on the Adept. +3. Plug the Ploopy device into your computer. +4. The computer should recognise that a mass storage device was just plugged in. Once this is done, you should be able to drag and drop files onto the Ploopy device, as if the board was a USB drive. Feel free to remove the tweezers or paperclip at this point. + +And that's it. While plugged in this way, the Ploopy device will accept new firmware. + +If you want to upload a new firmware file (a ".uf2" file, like "ploopy_adept_v42069" or something), just drag it into the folder, and it'll automatically install on the Ploopy device and restart itself. + +Whenever you want to put new firmware onto the Ploopy device, go through these steps again. + +**TIP**: If your firmware is in some kind of strange state and uploading new firmware isn't fixing it, try uploading [a flash nuke](https://learn.adafruit.com/getting-started-with-raspberry-pi-pico-circuitpython/circuitpython#flash-resetting-uf2-3083182) to the Adept before flashing the new firmware. It wipes the memory of the Adept completely clean, which can help clear a few types of errors. + +## Putting the Ploopy device into bootloader mode if it's bricked + +Putting the Ploopy device into bootloader mode if it's bricked is a bit more involved, but still doable. + +1. Unplug it from your computer. +2. Open it by removing the screws in the base and removing the top. +3. Look for a pair of vias (gold-plated holes) on the board. You can see where they're located [in this photo](https://ploopy.co/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/boot.jpg). +4. Get a paper clip (non-insulated, i.e. no plastic shit covering it) or a pair of tweezers, or some wire. Whatever you've got on hand that's metal. +5. Stick the paper clip or tweezers into the holes. You're trying to form an electrical connection between the two holes. +6. While you've got the two vias connected with your metal bridge, plug the Ploopy device into your computer. +7. The computer should recognise that a mass storage device was just plugged in. Once this is done, you should be able to drag and drop files onto the Ploopy device, as if the board was a USB drive. Feel free to remove the tweezers or paperclip at this point. + +And that's it. While plugged in this way, the Ploopy device will accept new firmware. + +## And that's it! + +Happy customizing! diff --git a/docs/assembly-instructions.md b/docs/assembly-instructions.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe31afa --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/assembly-instructions.md @@ -0,0 +1,208 @@ +# Ploopy Kit Assembly Instructions + +## BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, READ THIS FIRST. + +**Do not flash new firmware until you've verified that the electronics are all working.** + +That means, finish building the trackball, plug it in, use the stock firmware for about five minutes. Verify that the cursor is moving, and all the buttons are working. + +Once you've verified that it all works, you're good to go flashing new firmware. + +## Main Instructions + +![all kit parts](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfFOKGiX1egjs6ol2iNQnJ4jNDAxH1bfMqkoxHRl5mpLs3ZLxKLjKJR8xbkDLxCADVBUiWzJF8CwyH74PnvwaB3b2ErXDpoPGF3qR4dHEotAmtf3Ir6Wsf7FSntQSoPxZtsEllr6KtwjVg7xnZj4qsv=w1035-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +In this section, you'll go over how to build an Adept Trackball from the official Ploopy Adept Trackball kit. + +Note that some of these pictures were taken at different times, so they may show a bit of inconsistency in between steps. + +### Step 1: Get the necessary tools + +![all tools](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eKUqi_BjdcoJRlIiCtS0rxfiG9A3lCX8538aebNqQPccqBAioWTrmFEinRKAGVO0FNtpuwiR8vW0Ux6MPnLEe0OVpoppkdxLsX9M9iJcIh5tRhFcuQjpzP84skAn2yffFP1vID-sIKFg-YZX0lwRPI=s801-no?authuser=0) + +- A #1 Phillips head screwdriver (or similar; you're looking for a small-ish screwdriver here) +- Soldering iron +- Solder + +A pair of tweezers and needle-nose pliers may also be helpful during this process. + +### Step 2: Break any leftover tabs off the PCB + +![enter image description here](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMsL-8MYM2KZ_-CyFdPpuzJyChnqaTZTjUCXkvmCUbI-MlrQftVXLhMHw7z8NgtPAE_YkE4VXTxeYjPIQeWt4ItnOTl6M7VZhQLCLEnPEx4IiyrdXdXoKP7iSFYm4F_-cFrwUsvGJqLp8INjS8uZYS3=w1263-h947-s-no?authuser=0) + +- In the photo, a "tab" is being pulled by the pliers. +- There may be up to six small tabs on the outside of the PCB. +- Use a set of pliers to gently break the tabs off. + + +### Step 3: Prepare the PCB for soldering + +![enter image description here](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW3h7TgW4pMeGjDc47PAWe1dF5GIvrqyLd6GkpU1HptAZluDdueUx8eZc4HpjNfvqAw-LjtBdi1GusgHrs4T-LBn9ZUElRqkYt3IHkLp0g9ObWjxKJO6SQ4DoEwqXNIK3G3FEOwIbTmZI0ATf30cUaD=w788-h585-no?authuser=0) + +Prepare the following components: + +- Printed circuit board +- PMW-3360 chip +- PMW-3360 optic + +The PMW-3360 chip will come in a small piece of foam. Go ahead and remove it now. + + +### ***STOP! Read the next step fully before continuing.*** + +### Step 4: Solder PMW-3360 sensor to printed circuit board + +![sensor seated in adept board](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHehVrdHsWHFfOsmIu8JmE-wh28OtYddyUY4Ai_P1kpBq-sYIE9LTbAQ48mjD3TmDaXAyEmRp7H81yJ4qvvMoYZn0PnEd8vFci3_DdcdyLwYdTi8HWACSfjMvTryCu3uCKchpxT_am9Lpb4Eu1ZP0KC_=w1038-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +Before soldering: + +- **MAKE πŸ‘ SURE πŸ‘ THAT πŸ‘ THE πŸ‘ PMW-3360 πŸ‘ IS πŸ‘ ORIENTED πŸ‘ CORRECTLY πŸ‘ BEFORE πŸ‘ YOU πŸ‘ SOLDER πŸ‘ IT!** This is a really easy step to mess up, so *CHECK IT TWICE!* +- See the photo for clarification. Note the orientation of the text on the chip, as well as the pattern of dots on the chip. Also note the "1" on the printed circuit board. +- One warning to double-check the sensor orientation isn't sufficient. Stop what you're doing, right now, and check it. **Seriously.** Be kind to your future self, and save yourself a headache. +- Once you are absolutely sure that you have oriented the PMW-3360 correctly, solder it down. +- The sensor must be flat down as far as it can possibly slide into the holes before soldering. Don't let it "float" while you're soldering the first pin down. + +### Step 5: Remove the tab of kapton tape on the PMW-3360 + +![kapton being removed from sensor](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc-8G-mQvbF_1cp2btwVxMrvh1B0pSy-Fc7e26FWPlJmn4vczL_8a6-QBU6ESES4qihVTvNiYm30sgrUXQclvKBQ9LEvCI0od_DjCHe0KzN82qG61yzgV2os908o8oz7CyDKFB-lFjRNfQUs2mo5zutR=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +- There are two small tabs of orange tape covering the sensors main holes. Remove them now. +- Try to do this in a dust-free environment. +- Check your solder joints during this step to ensure that they are good. + +### Step 6: Attach the optic to the PMW-3360 + +![optic attached](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8euxSp-rxmJew4_Bqsws26bLEEAvLh3dyAlh4n9AWyYdr_heKJ1EHEcAhnnGyrQ1pZIU575Sd6CubS9Ri5Yshdc8IwCY3NUXgnC3_Zsu--UJ0ttD3M0VN5j3fRkgCXmNdmXNahQhM1U5Cb0XLNJAIa=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +- Orient the optic correctly before insertion. It should **NOT** require any force to insert fully; if it does, remove it and check the orientation before trying again. + +### Step 7: Place the PCB into the Base + +![pcb in base](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHe3900iYyddGPdg8QBqBLne3iffu9g2zxRoJel0syzkDh40PlmCGBhwWDQffKe95EDzeMe1By_y34D4w6RH6OJqY03_oabp4YgkLbw0Rzo4rBqAMR0TR4eryGyk5Kb11soTpq02rol7bwMiqeknpIV_=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +### Step 8: Place the Sensor Cap on the PCB + +![sensor cap on optic](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeyaHidkp5tdhs2B2VSzjPZuK7h13U4rjR06DhwL8oOTjdEYHHFmu_qX7fBg9xMmduOM__pDwmDrxgfpqFsL7_snviY2XoWrA5SKRp4ux_bYwSGHsbyYtKis1TgWR0vKfPwiAfALeEEB-wjoNNsWVww=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +- The Sensor Cap doesn't snap onto the PMW-3360 optic. It "floats" on top of the optic for now. Once fully assembled, the Sensor Cap will be securely held down. +- The position of the Sensor Cap doesn't precisely matter for the moment. Just try to get it roughly centered on the optic. + +### Step 9: Place the Top onto the Base + +![top placed](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc_EQRIgonn-6qqwASgfX-E2CL5mis4GArH4WeHOLyyr2cJFlKm2lOMHlquGJQa8TvKmSfYe7aULWrn_fhZ43kTjftY9IfzSpCQt6MBi0ku9eH_pyBy-SwqUeKvpBJspaf2zA5mBB_ChBrbo_lr0RWKQ=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +- If necessary, adjust the position of the Sensor Cap as you're lowering the Top onto the Base. + +### Step 10: Screw the Base into the Top + +![screws being drive into bottom](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc9Z5X1b7N9FT5oQeCQG5j5ItdGgg55qI5fjF87RnUjwaUGx_Ijgw6UlwNRC46gmqmnXdT26Cm-n6W-Z1Va8gYGIWzH1oOKrTD7P0ebvwt_lhH6QehKJkve643MZQobipO6AMt6u0rU1-7u2h-URjyoj=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +- Go slowly as you drive screws during this step. When you feel significant resistance, **stop**. + +### Step 11: Prepare bearing press jig + +![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fcHifwU-lceEx1MLBdimwCm6YiIihikVyH3o47rS98Kh0aqGivpEWOL1eh6f2ibLkXw1d3fMRY59Sdsr3q6CPVXu1lPp6L0VYicMQjhEkzmbeZhL7hxrkcK6QJq7s_bKvyd2hAVz7fV529o8yORZbG=s969-no?authuser=0) + +Prepare the following components: + +- Bearing press jig +- 3x roller bearing +- 3x roller bearing dowel + +### Step 12: Insert roller bearing and roller bearing dowel into bearing + +![press jig ](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fRT6fulgpn47hSmfqh7kCG2iNbNzv_x9CD6Zf1nxVRncDQu5ytk1cDuZFMIYnj_wwY0HwsVe3UukCv6-x9x2GiOXHWvwtCeBj57Src-WgTk7csrvDrtiUCFy6ahzs6LfD9mK1mJ34lM7AamE3TEte2=s969-no?authuser=0) + +### Step 13: Press the bearing press jig together + +![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d8_AnAnkjIbIy7z6Q8JS7EZJ8dG0vs0KRHT8hP5Rz-Dxz9qb992tmbLi10SfHgHt7-vNjDeKbpwyhoTiD8J3Tb9qNSTWhlCfKPTFQv-HdQ2HCkcNNwnsLWk5u_mlPgqrjlei9TVceGlfCAmZrfqRcK=s969-no?authuser=0) + +This may require a surprising amount of force. Try your best not to bend the roller bearing dowel, but if you do, there should be spares with your kit parts. + +### Step 14: Remove bearing from bearing press jig and repeat + +![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tDT3xaB105S_s87Qs_729WFTWj3YVGqZBMyM6iDCvnXjb93gdMC2k8QVjuNm4xRo3OSPbs94wE8G5tSKz1lqxZZ5-lh6UbCnuZe-MK3Kw9_pmYj7oO-aeVz_lP5aVHtzvQfxXNqiQHqFckddRPZ7VWgzCURwY6DpRRASEitkvFmKcn7hbTt7kUHNXZXzxy1Q85U6vun5VZ54P84xDU0AASsqPj1Sfo1P1E83_K9xhSASliFd4qUPL03XtejmRMNGbASAVO8zUBVn6qWFMMgayJRpsnYq225TEktqEpgv4raeZYyNVhL2YepfmQtKoReyFExeRNz5oGlZ_1_iae8KhKnmK5ZHMyTMw_sNZxUyghzEZFbSMm4WZmmP96-XFdSv8IPMjv1CdUFhDpP6b1d8i_jpPMLMG0aFzMoRkyX_rh_DVdpG-CoM8lZlMsRwT2vy5H_Mrju9At7a2Vn-8OcLs9hELAUmqgOrlJqwhCLgJIHXSz_XuLG6RlBsJFUvVIGreR_8YOS84lU0DatIqockhYvJ9leT-xbO6w4AAdo6da0DMW818BTXIWRd3CkjlZjSsOjymYaTJSu6U-doglnrrqr51DS-OgIfZyq91sJucVUwqT3Ow5oQNEz3bMi55IMBPmDCaZGBjtPXv2GHKi1JS3S3DLBxBqjAz4_rcqw8JLPRsrGSZZjimy4oNaNOUklme6bmEeaBL7sQ3AkBsnBNFKKWD2uyHxDNFZuQxT66FmiCf3M=w1454-h969-no) + +At the end, all of your bearings should look like this. + +### Step 15: Insert roller bearings into the Top + +![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XnP0djOr1WwefBp4rDly1YdNyW2AQhd-coKtscZKv4xwLYQmJh_O-Yihrh0kl4qVAVJzwqvUfclbO-AARVt4Oj-sKAitXEjXrTa9eQkSTTAPYWJnLc7gkS8j-tN1GtmaKbSNINXwkJ6ZZMrajByS7vWSRSjNuC8hHUd_JKAmnY9irJVoUA94iEWYrB4KBVxBaU0esIEXEof3rUggpv_uvVDYDBlDYpmaFRC0tnzvHJRxh-NW0WDAP2H9yjmCHNOmo04t-DF5EK2o4DYGlYeZ-amr1TsrGEmFdWtrc61bnUenfm0Ulv03gWHOZauP4YzcY2UQReYbF-dNYhlvbFwStHIYuEG4NqCsLKivuc42vBo89eCMaUe34BptrLVSyakLd0pp4gIjZql1-fCpfeGk4Gql2eRTs9QVwKzJsBwZdpzvZLcKFdvOpXAkSpD-GL50yMmYE74fzZa5wMb_8JUfeaLCtKLGSdMXIuDj7CgYarGZHs0hIhD-ACPOcFSUXrhXLrK4qHVwiHV3OXJ99RrEamD6_zqgOKKweBi3jInbRoLBHl9HRzRL9QureF2lYC0jbQuoM6jrkkHSKEcjGtVyIJyOfErP4hwQwMo2PbWC-OmimmXa6t3s9LkQxW-vgFXw4GfPPEDDSHsh99zX4VRnrvDOXaqatlAfMJVqVTLfOBUb8dkteuhFbpbdQH0xvRvradtn3gbNgk3ScUEUsCPk_RUCHkUBFVKLJzOjqXzPIXoa03s=w1454-h969-no) + +- Ensure that the bearings are pressed all the way into the case. If the bearings aren't seated all the way, there's a good chance that the ball will become badly scratched. +- Needle nose pliers or some similar tool can be used to ensure that the bearing is fully seated. + +### Step 16: Prepare the Friction Pads + +![body and friction pads](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc-ubZ-emcpyggq24CCyxfvzE6jKMQSZNqjEauKzWoBAORulF75JEtY2P1fVX129CNmYUr__yCw6qi1IFuqdWPJJ50RiYD_F4nk2iav3m2EWq4Jetg_4y8wktTatnZUBbUZ4C6wOpHelmsSFh7Pg7Mo5=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +Prepare the following components: + +- Adept body +- 4x Friction Pads + +### Step 17: Place Friction Pads on Base + +![friction pads installed](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc9at4wIWQH0lnWBbWhNOsybppvn7eG98WloCl7TqUNH5I_tQ-bprm9cT5iy_3n5FuFSKCx0mAm_nYquFBrcfDctgTbWvzJyrwUsR7CSmoBpacKS9PgiEKsK6sOomAz8rBoMmOIoRpDd91DOEmsc6KsY=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +- Do your best not to cover the screw holes with the friction pads, as this will make opening the case more difficult in the future. + +### Step 18: Insert the ball + +![ball in case](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc_v3rGcrEshrRvIKcmJqjYXqJjULNFlgx8v1j9rOPgi9hJOhmdpvj3_65gIX0UzgcjRaRFv46Wuc2omH5nMzAh9BuDEkIOxerbp7Af1ox5CEu4AnCdRa1AiJhL-20ehFOjU61fuEXblNM5kReyks41h=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +### Step 19: Peel and stick the logo to the Top + +![logo](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeqkMCpaURFHVMtVUhNOK22PPSPYF6FISdpbE-yzzh9Q6jIFwiIiZZv0gwiuAgsxB0uN9-9JAVcW3NefMnCiTGM7qkrOEKH_z41lAyyqdQlGFyG4BelpG6Vhp7nTvnrsegWuTRYxZRZtTkbxnlJouYU=w1033-h775-s-no?authuser=0) + +This isn't strictly necessary, but we think it looks nice. + +### Step 20: Verify that the Ploopy Adept Trackball is working correctly + +Plug the trackball into your computer. If you move the ball, it should move the cursor. + +### Step 21: Spin the ball to break in the bearings + +The bearings are a bit scratchy when they're new. To prevent them from jumping around during initial use, spin the ball with some Latin dance vigour for about three minutes. That should be enough to break them in. + +The bearings will take about a week to become fully broken-in. + +### Step 22: All done! + +Congrats, you finished building the Ploopy Adept Trackball! + +It's done! Love it, use it, but don't you dare abuse it! + +## FAQ + +### Some buttons seem "sticky", or are too low, or are permanently clicking. What do I do? + +Sometimes, the buttons on the Top need to be adjusted so that the distance between the button and the switch on the PCB are correct. You can do this either when the Top is installed or when it's removed. + +The buttons can be adjusted quite far without breaking, but still, **do this slowly**. Don't move the buttons too far at one time. + +[A video of how to adjust the Top when the Top is removed is available here.](https://imgur.com/2l5EsTi) This is the recommended route as it has the lowest possibility of damaging the Top. + +[A video of how to adjust the Top when the Top is installed is available here.](https://imgur.com/OqEk2X5) This is only recommended if you have the capability of reprinting your own Top in case you break this one. + +### I've plugged in the Adept, but none of the buttons are working, and the cursor isn't working. What's wrong? + +You have a bad cable. + +To expand: many USB-C cables only provide power, and their data wires aren't actually connected. If your computer seems to recognize that a device has been plugged in, but none of the buttons are working and the cursor isn't moving, the problem is almost certainly the cable. + +Try using the Adept with a cable that you've verified to work with another device. If that still doesn't solve the problem, send an email to contact@ploopy.co. + +### One or more of the rollers seems to be badly stuck. What do I do? + +Take a look at this photo: + +![enter image description here](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOIJRNGNC-7HbVE7ZA2MPZsiG4hSKyhmbKv4XpsuvRAk2CiMboLVKeaCeTNRPddO8OWH-iRtkB52kxGKF8wMKMhpHLt3pNnDgPUvK6nHOR0b3FWXNsol70jPqbLwHmJueBo4890GN8FFai9e2QmOg4L=w1263-h947-s-no?authuser=0) + +Circled in red, you should notice a small piece of plastic sticking up into the well where the roller bearing sits. This piece of plastic can interrupt the regular movement of the roller bearing, causing it to seize up. + +Remove the bearing that's not rolling correctly from the Top and look for this piece of plastic. You should be able to remove it with a pair of tweezers, though you may have to scrape quite hard to get it off. + +### The buttons are all working, but the cursor isn't. What's going on? + +The sensor likely isn't soldered correctly. Double-check all of your solder connections, touch them up with some flux if you have it, and try again. If it still isn't working, send an email to contact@ploopy.co. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/docs/index.md b/docs/index.md index 000ea34..53539db 100644 --- a/docs/index.md +++ b/docs/index.md @@ -1,17 +1,13 @@ -# Welcome to MkDocs +# Home -For full documentation visit [mkdocs.org](https://www.mkdocs.org). +So, you want to build a Ploopy Adept Trackball, eh? Or, maybe you want to replace some broken parts. Maybe you want to reprogram it. Or maybe you just want to know how it all works. No matter the motivation, this is the place to learn. -## Commands +**Bought a kit and itching to get it built?** --> Get started by going to the [assembly instructions](assembly-instructions.md). -* `mkdocs new [dir-name]` - Create a new project. -* `mkdocs serve` - Start the live-reloading docs server. -* `mkdocs build` - Build the documentation site. -* `mkdocs -h` - Print help message and exit. +**Looking to purchase a kit with everything you need to build your own Ploopy Adept?** --> [Check out the Ploopy store](https://ploopy.co/product-category/trackball/adept/). -## Project layout +**Building a Ploopy Adept Trackball from scratch?** --> Get started by going to [Appendix A: Printed circuit boards](appendices/pcbs.md). - mkdocs.yml # The configuration file. - docs/ - index.md # The documentation homepage. - ... # Other markdown pages, images and other files. +--- + +*Copyright (C) 2023 Ploopy Corporation. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.3 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Texts. A copy of the license is included in the section entitled "GNU Free Documentation License".* \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/docs/license.md b/docs/license.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8bb8c53 --- /dev/null +++ b/docs/license.md @@ -0,0 +1,445 @@ +# GNU Free Documentation License + +Version 1.3, 3 November 2008 + +Copyright (C) 2000, 2001, 2002, 2007, 2008 Free Software Foundation, +Inc. + +Everyone is permitted to copy and distribute verbatim copies of this +license document, but changing it is not allowed. + +#### 0. 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